The small group of thirty-something-looking women standing behind us was loud and chatty, but friendly. One of them wore a sash that read “Birthday Girl.”

It was around 11:00 AM.

My wife and I were in a lineup, waiting for the Hop-on-Hop-Off bus on Canal Street in New Orleans. The girls were clearly in high spirits, in more ways than one. A couple of mimosas or Bloody Marys for breakfast can have that effect on you.

I wasn’t judging.

After all, we were in New Orleans. People visit the city to eat, drink, and be merry. I had glossed over the cocktail list during breakfast but had decided against ordering one when my wife pointedly looked at her watch.

For a party city, New Orleans is unlike Las Vegas.

New Orleans history is deeply influenced by the French and the Spanish who occupied the city at various points in its past. The city’s culture, traditions, music, and food stand testament to its multi-cultural lineage and its somewhat checkered past that include the dark days of slavery and a series of tragedies. The damage done by Hurricane Katrina is still fresh in people’s minds. The recent collapse of the Hard Rock Hotel hasn’t helped the city’s collective psyche. 

Yet, New Orleans projects a stoic “enjoy the moment” demeanor.

The people of New Orleans are always celebrating something.

The city hosts around a hundred and thirty festivals a year, making it the festival capital of America. There are the festivals that you have heard of — Mardi Gras, Jazz and Heritage Festival, French Quarter Festival… Then, there are the ones that you know little about that attract a hoard of local revelers and tourists. Tennessee Williams Festival, Dirty Linen Night, Gumbo Festival, and Burlesque Festival are examples.

While the festival themes differ, the general idea is to have a good time. In New Orleans, a “good time” translates to music, food, and cocktails.

If I had to pick a single reason to go to New Orleans, that would be food.

New Orleans cuisine is unique and comprises of a range of Cajun, Creole, and Soul food. It is not unusual to find fried chicken and crab cakes on your breakfast menu. Many local favourites that I recognized included gumbo, jambalaya, po-boy sandwiches, boiled crawfish, and fried oysters. A few of the dishes were completely new to me. They had very French and Italian-sounding names such as étouffée, muffuletta, boudin, and beignets. I won’t attempt to explain what goes into each of these dishes, here’s a link to a post on popular New Orleans cuisine.

While the abundance of butter and creamy sauces may not be what the doctor ordered, thankfully, the portions are manageable when compared to what you would find in cities like Houston and Atlanta. Perhaps, it has to do with the French influence.

Considered the birthplace of jazz, New Orleans bars and restaurants feature live bands that play mostly jazz and rock music to entertain their patrons. Music greats who called New Orleans home include Louis Armstrong and Fats Domino.

New Orleanians would tell you that the bands that play in the bars on Frenchmen Street are a cut above the musicians that you traditionally find on Bourbon Street. We tried both. I would say that Bourbon Street establishments tend to get louder, especially on game nights. If you have ever been to the Temple Bar neighbourhood in Dublin, you will know what I am talking about.

As for cocktails, Sazerac, Hurricanes, and daiquiris topped the list on most bar menus. And in case you are wondering, yes, you can walk the streets with a “to-go” alcoholic beverage in your hand. The many store windows promoting “pizza and daiquiri” left me wondering if it was the “beer and wings” equivalent in New Orleans.

So, what is the best time to visit New Orleans?

The simple answer is: it depends. As you can see from this post, it would depend on what you want to do in New Orleans.

From personal experience, I would say that the first two weeks of December is a great time to visit New Orleans. You can enjoy everything the city has to offer without the hustle and bustle associated with the festivities that occur during the peak season.

With the average temperature hovering around 64°F in December, it is fall-jacket season in New Orleans for folks travelling from colder parts of the world such as Toronto. The weather is ideal if your agenda includes long walks or a swamp tour, which during the summer months may not be as pleasant.

The holiday spirit is on full display along Canal Street and many of the commercial establishments in the Central Business District. Glittering Christmas lights and decorations give the city a cheerful and upbeat vibe. The fabled Bourbon Street tends to get busy in the evenings with tourists and New Orleans Saints fans exploring their entertainment options. However, the bars and restaurants that line the street are less crowded in December and offer walk-in seating to potential patrons.

Despite all the fun and frolicking, there is a sense of “the worst is yet to come” in New Orleans.

Fourteen years after Hurricane Katrina, the fact remains that the sea level around New Orleans is rising. Parts of New Orleans are nearly three metres below mean sea level.

Not a comforting thought.

I am reminded of the song “New Orleans is sinking” released thirty years ago by the Tragically Hip. For me, it was just a catchy rock song until now.

Not anymore.

The relevance of the lyrics will always take me back to New Orleans!