My flight from Toronto to Dublin is full.
As I settle down into my seat, I notice that my co-passengers are predominantly white and middle-aged. It isn’t a typical transatlantic flight where you find an eclectic mix of travelers. Toronto’s multicultural demography ensures that.
It does not take long for me to figure out what is going on.
I overhear bits of conversations: “My mother is half Irish”; “My paternal grandfather was from Ireland”; “As per ancestry.com…”
Most people traveling to Ireland from Canada and the USA are chasing their roots.
I am not surprised.
The combined population of the Island of Ireland is small, around 6.6 million. But, almost a hundred million people living outside Ireland are believed to have Irish ancestors. Fifty million of them live in the USA, and another five million or so call Canada home. Many of the passengers on the plane are visiting Ireland to get a feel of their ancestors’ homeland.
My intentions are purely touristy. The idea was to land in Dublin and go from there.
As usual, I had not done much research.
I knew that the Republic of Ireland is an independent country while Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom. During the flight, I tried to think of all the things that I knew were distinctly Irish: St Patrick’s Day, U2, Riverdance, Guinness, Jameson…
The list wasn’t long.
The Irish Gaelic language was a surprise. I had expected it to be an archaic version of English that I would be able to figure out. I was wrong. If it weren’t for the English signs, even simple things like restrooms, airport exits, and road signs would have been impossible to understand.
As for Dublin, there isn’t much not to like.
It is a tourist-friendly city; small, modern, safe, and eminently walkable. There is lush greenery everywhere. It is obvious, green is the colour of choice in Dublin. Aer Lingus, many double-decker buses, and pubs are painted green.
Yet, I am told that Saint Patrick’s colour was blue.
Like many things in Ireland, the Irish Rebellion of 1798 is believed to have influenced the change.
You don’t go to Dublin and not see St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The serene environment around the cathedral and its grounds provide visitors an opportunity to reflect on how one man changed the course of Irish history.
As an outsider, it is difficult to completely comprehend the religious, political, and economic factors that have shaped the present-day Republic of Ireland.
Beneath the evident economic boom and the stability that currently prevails in Ireland, there is concern that things can change. The implications of Britain, Ireland’s largest trading partner, exiting the EU are not fully understood yet. With Northern Ireland remaining part of the UK, there is worry that a no-deal Brexit may result in hard borders and troubles reminiscent of the Island’s deadly past.
Ireland has had its share of bad times.
The Great Hunger caused by the failure of potato crops in the 1800s is believed to have caused severe starvation and death of around a million Irish people while another million emigrated to greener pastures. A monument on Custom House Quay remains a stark reminder of those dark days.
But for now, it’s business as usual.
Beer and whiskey play a vital role in the city’s economy. The Guinness Brewery and the Jameson Distillery are major draws for tourists visiting the city.
With 750 pubs and counting, Dublin’s social scene is vibrant. The locals and the tourists pack the many public establishments to down a pint or two, socialize, and watch sports. A search for pubs in Dublin will bring up Temple Bar, a neighbourhood chock-a-block with pubs frequented by tourists. A namesake pub is a popular destination for younger tourists to the city.
The Irish have a great sense of humour. On more than one occasion I heard the popular drinking song quoted: In heaven there is no beer, that’s why we drink it here…
Dubliners take pride in mentioning their literary elite.
George Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Oliver Goldsmith, and many other heavyweights of literature were Dubliners. As you would often hear, Dublin has had its share of drinkers with writing problems. So if you are looking for a pub a little less noisy than the ones in Temple Bar, check out this post on Dublin’s literary pubs.
As for the food, you can’t go wrong with Irish stew. And, like their British counterparts, most pubs in Dublin offer their variation of a spicy curry.
What you do in Dublin would depend on the amount of time you have and your preferences. Two days exploring the city and a third day to see an attraction out of town felt just right.
Newgrange, a two-hour drive out of Dublin, is the site of a 5000-year-old passage tomb. Like many other such attractions, the “why?” behind the tomb is unknown. Nevertheless, the precise engineering behind the monument leaves you wondering about the “how?”
If you are considering a visit, this link to Dublin’s major attractions may come in handy.
As I left Dublin, I wondered how the Irish felt about the vast diaspora of their people spread across the globe. It’s great to know that your people have become influential figures and shaped the destiny of other countries such as the United States.
On the other hand, you could think like my guide who said, “They left, didn’t they?”
